10 things to see and do in and around Mula

From the beauties of the countryside through thousands of years of history to the madness of Easter drumming!

Located in a green, fertile valley just 35 km or so north-west of the city of Murcia, the small town of Mula is far more than a home to the population who, in the past, devoted most of their time to agriculture and traditional crafts. Endowed with a degree of wealth and prestige by the Marquises de los Vélez, who governed the area with varying degrees of control for centuries, and there are historic buildings here including the 16^th-century castle which stands over the town.

But the legacy of past in habitants stretches back far further, as the Iberian art museum of El Cigarralejo and the Roman villa of Los Villaricos testify, and there are even prehistoric cave paintings dating back thousands of years.

Despite this rich history, though, Mula sits in a privileged rural environment, and much of the attraction is provided by the scenery, the beauty spots and the old traditions which are still maintained within the close-knit community.

The Monastery of La Encarnación

The Real Monasterio de la Encarnación, in the upper part of the old town, was built on the site of a 16^th-century church, of which the tower still remains. It is still possible to enjoy the beautiful cloister and the building is now home to a treasured holy relic!

It is said that when Helen, mother of the Roman Emperor Constantine, who decreed that Rome should follow Christian beliefs, returned from Constantinople she brought with her two thorns from the crown worn by Jesus during his crucifixion, and one of these has purportedly ended up in the monastery in Mula!

The church can be visited every day of the week except Mondays and on Sunday afternoons, generally from 10.00 to 12.00 and 15.00 to 17.30.

Fairy-tale countryside

One of the highlights of the year in Mula is the almond blossom season, which usually occurs in February and March and coats the countryside in swathes of pink and white flowers on the northern slopes of Sierra Espuña. The best spot to admire the sight is in the outlying district of Casas Nuevas, where there are more almond trees per square kilometre than in any other part of the Region of Murcia.

But the green countryside is a sight for sore eyes all year round, and the proximity of the mountains of Sierra Espuña provide a dramatic backdrop to the panoramic views.

Tradition, arts and crafts

For centuries the gastronomic specialities of Mula have included meat products, rustic bread, cheeses and of course locally grown produce, and on top of that, crafts such as pottery, wrought ironwork and esparto grass weaving have thrived. One of the best places to see these items, and to pick up a bargain or two, is the market of El Portón de la Placeta, which is held on the second Sunday of every month!

The Roman Villa of Los Villaricos

When the Romans conquered and occupied modern-day Spain they instigated many agricultural bases in rural areas, known as “villae”. The site of Los Villaricos is one of these, and features not only an olive oil press (the largest of its kind discovered in Spain) and mill and wine-making facilities, but also an area which was devoted to the heated and cooled bathing areas which appeared in such buildings all over Europe in the centuries either side of the life of Christ.

After the villa was abandoned in the 5^th century the residential quarters became a kind of Christian basilica, in which numerous burials have been found.

The North-West Greenway

The Vía Verde del Noroeste runs from the city of Murcia to the pilgrimage destination of Caravaca de la Cruz, passing through the municipality of Mula and the village of Los Baños de Mula (named after a thermal spa which brought the Romans here) on the way towards Bullas.

Fully signposted, the route is easy to follow and is popular among hikers, cyclists and horse riders as it passes from the “Badlands” in the south to the pine and lemon groves further west. For those taking on more than one stage of the greenway there are hostels and other accommodations in Mula itself.

El Niño de Mula

Local legend in Mula has it that in 1648 Pedro Botía, a shepherd who prayed for deliverance from the plague afflicting the area, was praying whilst tending his flock when he opened his eyes and saw before him a young boy in the area known as Campo de Albalat, or Balate.

He asked who the stranger was. "I am Jesus", he said, "Jesus of Balate, take my cross and follow me", and he disappeared.

Immediately, episodes of plague in the area ceased and Pedro Botía decided to become a monk in the nearby monastery of La Encarnación.

Years later, he had a second vision, when he saw a wooden carving of Jesus and told his story of the apparition, saying the carving was the face of the young boy he had seen. From then on his fame grew, and he became known as Fray Pedro de Jesús. In 1694 his family built a small place of worship at the location in which the young boy had appeared and slowly the village became a place of pilgrimage, becoming known as El Niño de Mula, the little boy of Mula.

From then on the village became a favourite stop-off point for travellers, and it is still a good place to stop for a bite to eat and a rest. There is also a sanctuary devoted to the Niño de Mula and every September two “romerías” are held in which locals accompany the figure of the boy to the town of Mula and back again.

Historic buildings

The castle of Los Vélez stands imposingly on the hill behind the town of Mula but is, unfortunately, currently closed to the public due to the insecure condition of the castle walls. However, an equally interesting destination is the Casa Pintada (“painted house”), which was built (and decorated) in 1770 and now houses a Contemporary art collection. Pride of place is given to renowned local artist Cristóbal Gabarrón, who at the age of 22 was already exhibiting his work in New Work and Paris in 1967.

The Casa Pintada is generally open from 10.00 to 14.00 from Wednesday to Friday and from 11.00 to 14.00 at weekends.

Inland bathing in summer

At the risk of giving away Mula’s closely guarded secrets, among the most popular spots in Murcia for those seeking a really cold and refreshing dip (or maybe an outing on the paddle board) during the hot summer are Fuente Caputa and the reservoir of La Cierva. Fuente Caputa is in a wooded valley just a couple of kilometres north of Mula and is easily reached, while the reservoir of La Cierva is further along the country road which takes visitors to the Roman villa of Los Villaricos.

Ancient history and the museum of El Cigarralejo

One of the most important rock art sites in the Region of Murcia is the Abrigo del Milano, where paintings dating back over 6,000 years have been found along with a burial site from the late Stone Age. Slightly more up to date is the art found in the museum of El Cigarralejo, which houses perhaps the finest collection of Iberian art in the world, including grave goods from 80 burials which were discovered at a nearby Iberian burial site.

Alongside them are pieces of ceramics, stone sculpture and weaponry.

Easter drumming frenzy!

Earthquakes are notoriously difficult to predict and forecast, but if you want to know what one sounds like head for Mula at midnight on the Tuesday of the week leading up to Easter! This is the Night of the Drums, when the entire town settles in for 16 hours of continuous noise and energetic banging of the drum, the only requirements for taking part being a black tunic and your own drum!

If you’re lucky (or unlucky?), you might be caught up in a “Pángana”, when without warning two drummers face off against each other and compete to drum louder and better than the other!

Don’t worry, this doesn’t happen all year round!

Source: ITREM